Mad About Mushrooms

MUSHROOMS ON THE PLATE
Two amazing recipes from executive chef Chris Royster at Flagstaff House

mushroom-popovers

“This is a great dish that does what is classically done with roast beef. It has that roasted meat flavor, but it’s 100 percent vegetarian.” —CHEF CHRIS ROYSTER; Mushroom popover, served with Domaine Laroche Chablis 2016

Mushroom Popovers
DOUGH INGREDIENTS
2 sticks butter
2 c. milk
2 c. flour
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. white pepper
4 eggs

MUSHROOM FILLING INGREDIENTS
2 c. chanterelle mushrooms
½ c. diced onions
½ c. diced celery
1 tbsp. minced garlic
1 tbsp. fresh thyme
¼ c. fresh parsley
White wine

DIRECTIONS
TO MAKE DOUGH
Brown butter in saucepan. Once it’s browned, add milk and bring to a boil. Add flour, salt, and pepper. Cook until fully combined. Place in stand mixer with paddle attachment. Mix on slow; slowly add eggs. Once combined, whip for 30 seconds on high. Reserve dough.

TO PREPARE MUSHROOMS
Heat large sauté pan over high, add small amount of oil and sauté mushrooms until lightly browned. Add onion, garlic and celery and lightly sauté. Deglaze pan with splash of white wine (white burgundy or oak-aged chardonnay).

TO MAKE POPOVERS
Lightly grease large ramekin dishes or large muffin tins. Mold or pipe in dough, leaving space for mushroom filling in middle. Spoon mushrooms into center. Bake at 425–450 F for 10 to 12 minutes or until dough has popped up nice and high and browned around the top. Serve with a light salad or fava beans, roasted onions and cherry tomatoes.

mushroom-ravioli

“This dish is really fun because it celebrates the mushroom itself. We use lots and lots of mushrooms—good varieties—and everything else is there to enhance them. Raviolis can be very simple, but, done right, they can also be very elegant.” —CHEF CHRIS ROYSTER; Mushroom ravioli, served with Cantine Valpane Barbera 2011

Mushroom Ravioli
DOUGH INGREDIENTS
1 lb. flour
5 eggs

MUSHROOM FILLING INGREDIENTS
2 lbs. assorted mushrooms
1 onion, minced
1 fennel bulb, minced
1 Tbsp. garlic, minced
4 sticks butter
1 pint vegetable stock

PEA PURÉE INGREDIENTS
1 cup blanched fresh English peas
1 bunch watercress
1 shallot onion
1 clove garlic
½ cup cream
2 Tbsp. goat cheese

VEGETABLE DEMI
3 qt. vegetables, finely chopped
1 bulb garlic, split in half

3 qt. of water
¼ cup tomato paste
Large handful fresh herbs

2 Tbsp. pectin
1 tsp. xanthan gum

MUSHROOM DUST
1 cup tapioca maltodextrin
½ tsp. fine ground sea salt or iodized salt
Drained butter from ravioli filling

DIRECTIONS
TO MAKE DOUGH: Mix flour and eggs in food processor to bring dough together.
TO MAKE FILLING: Clean and dice mushrooms. Roast all ingredients in roasting pan until everything is browned and lightly caramelized; strain butter from dish.
TO MAKE PURÉE: Blend ingredients together until smooth. Serve immediately, or chill over ice rapidly.
TO MAKE VEGETABLE DEMI: Toss veggies and garlic in a small amount of oil and roast at 400 F in the oven. Stir on occasion to ensure even browning; vegetables should be golden brown and caramelized when finished. Add tomato paste and roast for 1-2 more minutes. Deglaze pan with a splash of water and place veggies, herbs and water in a pot. Bring to a simmer and cook for 2-3 hours or until about half way reduced. Blend with stick blender and strain through a fine mesh strainer. Return to pot and reduce until about 1-1 ½ quarts of liquid remains. Add pectin and xanthan gum. Bring to a full boil for 1-2 minutes and then check for consistency. The sauce should fully coat the back of a spoon. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.
TO MAKE MUSHROOM DUST: Add tapioca maltodextrin and salt to a food processor. Turn on medium-high speed and slowly drizzle in enough butter to flavor the maltodextrin and bring everything together, but not so much that it turns into a paste.

TO FINISH DISH
Chill mushrooms. Start tempering pasta dough to room temperature, roll out into thin sheets, and cut into squares just bigger than desired size of ravioli. Take two squares, brush one side with an egg wash and place a small amount of filling in middle. Place second square on top and seal edges shut. Top with pea purée, vegetable demi and mushroom dust; garnish with goat cheese.

MYCO-MANIA
Celebrate mushrooms at these events

MUSHROOM FAIR
The Denver Botanic Gardens hosts a multitude of mushroom events, including the Colorado Mycological Society’s 41st annual Mushroom Fair, on Sunday, Aug. 12, at Gates Hall. To prepare for the big event, listen to mycologist Michael Kuo share his knowledge on mushrooms and their edibility on Aug. 10; bring your mushrooms for identification.

MUSHROOM FORAYS
If you’re looking for something totally hands-on, the CMS is leading two fungi forays in August: a pre-CMS fair hunt on Aug. 11 at Cheesman Park, followed by another foray on Aug. 26.

MUSHROOM FESTIVAL
Celebrate all-things fungal and spore-bearing at the four-day Telluride Mushroom Festival, Aug. 16–19. The featured speaker is Paul Stamets, award-winning mycologist and author famed for his expertise in mushroom cultivation and medicinal fungi. Between seminars, lectures, workshops and demos, venture out into the wild for daily mushroom forays with mycology experts from around the globe.

MOUNTAINS AND MORELS
Coinciding with the mushroom festival, the Hotel Telluride is offering a “Mountains and Morels” package, which includes lessons on mushroom diversity and foraging plus a private three-course gourmet dinner with harvested mushrooms and a wine pairing, from Aug. 1 to 28.

—Hayden Gamble

Dubbed “earth’s natural internet,” funghi are made up of tiny threads called mycelium that travel underground and connect the roots of different plants, so they can communicate.

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